tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-34477838413819298512012-02-17T04:43:17.076ZChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.comBlogger2121100tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-51023677501399246922011-01-28T07:36:00.003Z2011-01-28T08:12:30.444Z

A few minutes after the sun peaked its head over the horizon this morning, I walked up the steps of Meknes' main train station and shook hands with my fellow teacher Mike."I almost thought you had forgotten the money." He handed me 250 Dirhams, our agreed upon price for the Arabic textbook Al-kitab 3. The two of us walked inside and approached my former roommate Daniel."We come full circle." He

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-50965979867886980292011-01-06T22:35:00.003Z2011-01-06T23:00:22.465Z

In my favorite cafe, there are only two positions women are eligible for: cleaning and manning (womanning?) the cash register. This is par for the course--men make the coffee and serve it; women keep track of the money to pay for the coffee and tidy up the mess coffee-drinkers make. In both cases, the women work either the morning shift (till 2:30 PM or so) or the afternoon/evening shift (till

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-26686849379063252212011-01-05T13:17:00.003Z2011-01-05T13:26:22.972Z

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-58527257903801317342010-12-24T14:04:00.005Z2010-12-24T14:57:53.226Z

Having turned in the last of my grades yesterday and thus put an end to my busiest semester yet, I slept in this Christmas Eve morning. After a lazy breakfast and some quality Internet time I made my way out to the corner café for a nis-nis, the Moroccan café au lait. After an hour reading the special Christmas issue of The Economist and a bit from Gary Shteyngart's Absurdistan, I took a walk

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-14255340060345651252010-12-11T17:29:00.002Z2010-12-11T17:38:12.955Z

Artificial Christmas trees and Christmas decorations are now available for Westerners in most supermarkets. Moroccans also buy them in consumerist imitation of what they have seen on TV.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-36890750801517782432010-11-24T12:37:00.005Z2010-11-24T12:48:42.178Z

It's amazing what excess mutton will do for relationships.The past week people have come out of the woodwork to bring me leftover meat from Eid al-Kabir. First my Arabic tutor brought me a large salad and a huge tajine of mutton kefta (essentially: ground mutton patties). Then, two days later, another friend I hadn't seen in months appeared at my doorstep with a similar meal. Fortunately I didn't

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-19030045535862159772010-11-21T23:45:00.004Z2010-11-21T23:53:31.108Z

Some readers have asked if I will be commenting on the holiday or posting photos. Unfortunately, this year I did not celebrate Eid Al-Kabir other than a post-holiday meal of mutton that my Arabic tutor brought over. However, feel free to read about my great experience last year watching the sheep slaughter, eating boulfef, and visiting my host's extended family.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-35426639116539092452010-11-16T14:40:00.003Z2010-11-16T14:44:45.263Z

Economist Dani Rodrik highlights some findings from the Human Development Report:Which are the countries that have improved their human development indicators the most since 1970 relative to their peers? You’d be surprised, as I was, to find that the top 10 is dominated not by East Asian superstars, but by Moslem countries: Oman, Indonesia, Saudi Arabia, Tunisia, Morocco, and Algeria. This year’s

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-56994576545304313412010-11-14T15:37:00.005Z2010-11-14T16:05:39.021Z

When I was younger, the week before Christmas vacation was filled with excited anticipation of presents, freedom, food and family visits. I can't imagine that a classroom of 30 students just like me was very fun to manage back then. It's strange to be on the other side now. The last week it has been insanely difficult to get my students to focus. The Eid holiday will begin in the middle of this

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-59631404177395382672010-11-14T00:07:00.000Z2010-11-14T00:07:01.088Z

A group of Moroccan boys take a break from their soccer game for a group photo. The rock to the right marks one of their goalposts.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-33339281521243238132010-11-10T13:05:00.003Z2010-11-10T13:24:12.471Z

Today after my Arabic lesson, I introduced my Arabic tutor to Craigslist. He's a quiet guy and so usually doesn't ask too many questions. Actually, I'm the one posing all the questions as we discuss grammar, definitions, slang...But today the floodgate broke. Very pointed, detailed questions made me realize he's been spending a lot of time thinking through everything. Which is natural; his

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-11870166420099960192010-11-10T00:02:00.002Z2010-11-10T00:02:00.473Z

Located on the outskirts of Meknes, Dar Oum Sultane ("The House of the Sultan's Mother") was a vacation home for the royal family a few centuries ago. Since then, it has fallen into disrepair.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-8025974330688435462010-11-07T23:57:00.001Z2010-11-08T00:01:58.688Z

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-76205901508188076552010-11-07T23:47:00.002Z2010-11-07T23:57:02.255Z

From MoroccoBoard.com:According to a news release from International Christian Concern (ICC), on Sept.17, the Moroccan newspaper Al Massae reported that Harder and Sanhi Russell were expelled from the country for “carrying out acts of proselytism” in the city of Kenitra.ICC reported the article said that Harder, a Canadian citizen, was teaching Arabic at a local school, while Sanhi, of Korean

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-47624887390432464292010-11-03T21:22:00.004Z2010-11-03T21:33:32.507Z

The English center where I teach caters mainly to the upper middle and upper classes in Meknes. To try to balance out my work there, I volunteer at the Franciscan mission in Meknes's old medina, which gives language and computer skills classes. Year long courses there cost 50 Dh (~ $7) as opposed to the ten-week courses at my official job which cost around 1000 Dh (~ $130).Last week I gave my

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-89227713510298364042010-11-01T12:42:00.001Z2010-11-02T12:44:44.032Z

A view of the Atlantic Ocean from a house in Mohammedia.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-88534396941726773992010-10-29T20:55:00.003Z2010-10-30T01:09:54.053Z

This morning I visited the offices of the CNSS. After waiting 20 minutes I received my social security card. My favorite employee was curt as always. Now I must return next week to resubmit my request for an attestation.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-72324293637418076762010-10-28T00:56:00.002Z2010-10-28T01:02:53.559Z

I recently bought these "sdader" (singular: "sdari"). These traditional Moroccan couches still vastly outnumber Western style couches here. The Moroccan home is the site of many important social events, from weddings to memorial services, and so enough sdader to seat dozens of people line the walls of many families' homes.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-49440824538901996682010-10-25T12:45:00.003Z2010-10-25T12:54:09.436Z

Today I returned to the CNSS office to obtain my Moroccan Social Security card. After waiting 10 or 15 minutes, I entered the room with the two men I had the pleasure of meeting last time. I sat down in the chair at the desk of the man who told me to return on Monday. I said, "Salaamu Alaykum." He continued working. A few seconds he turned to me. "Oui," he said as if he was surprised anyone would

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-81198291717135109392010-10-22T11:03:00.005Z2010-10-25T22:04:59.783Z

As is often the case, Morocco sees cause to regulate those who work within its borders. It has a wonderful little organization called the "Caisse Nationale de sécurité sociale" (CNSS) or "National Social Security Fund". Like all those who work here officially, I am required to register, and my paycheck is deducted every month for the benefit of the retired.Today I had the pleasure of visiting the

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-5408694099063729462010-10-17T09:18:00.006Z2010-10-17T09:47:49.528Z

After a post-Ramadan holiday, I am settling into a new apartment. I now have a fridge, a stove, and a water heater. And after an awkward first week of eating, I can now dine comfortably off of a plate resting on a table while sitting in a chair. Plates, tables, chairs...the small joys of life!I'm still missing couches and a television, and the walls are rather bare. There is no washing machine,

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-43204519612765815692010-10-06T15:44:00.001Z2010-10-06T15:44:00.835Z

A homeless man sorts through trash in an upper class neighborhood

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-47523625044141157682010-10-01T22:12:00.003Z2010-10-01T22:44:17.898Z

Seen from thousands of feet above, France, Spain, and Morocco don't look all that different. There are greener patches and more mountainous stretches, particularly in France. And especially south of Madrid and in large parts of Morocco there are barren flatlands. But all have farmland, houses, roads, cities, villages...and so one can't help but wonder at the great variety in human culture from

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-65381921514904247342010-09-29T15:29:00.000Z2010-09-29T15:29:00.761Z

The Camera Cinema is one of the oldest movie theaters in Meknes.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-24778075645201513972010-09-22T15:21:00.001Z2010-09-22T15:21:00.341Z

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-14393492647542072772010-09-17T17:26:00.004Z2010-09-17T17:51:19.825Z

He begins by buzzing the left side of my head. Before he can move to the back or right side, the man in the chair next to me comments on my Arabic, "You speak well the Arabic."I try to downplay it as usual, "Yes, the basic things. But I don't understand everything.""Little by little," comes the reply."Where are you from?""I'm American.""Good.""Did you fast during Ramadan?""A little. When people

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-35523054395720994612010-09-15T15:41:00.001Z2010-09-15T15:41:00.521Z

Looking northward from a Meknes rooftop.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-31958366888660489892010-09-15T04:31:00.005Z2010-09-15T04:56:40.791Z

These days, the coffee shops close between 9 PM and 10 PM these days. They open in the morning rather than after sunset. The streets are remarkably quiet in the late evening. Step inside, the papered-over alcohol shelfs are now clearly visible. The population of prostitutes seems to have increased a few fold in the past few nights. There are fewer fights in the streets.Ramadan is over.Other than

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-47241415008261826552010-09-08T15:30:00.003Z2010-09-08T15:38:00.601Z

Rue de Paris is perhaps the best known pedestrian area in Meknes. At night during Ramadan its outdoor cafes are particularly popular.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-13456239235237474822010-09-07T15:47:00.004Z2010-09-08T16:31:39.338Z

For whatever reason the Amish occupy a special place in English textbooks. Perhaps it is because they give an example of an almost other-worldly culture that raises all sorts of interesting questions. Maybe they just serve as a nice counterpoint to any unit on technology and progress. But in any case, every time I turn around, it seems I am explaining the Amish way of life to my Moroccan students

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-91049968732060186522010-09-05T20:26:00.003Z2010-09-05T20:47:45.795Z

This is an experiment. I haven't done anything like this before. The footage I have is in HD, but because of online constraints the quality has been significantly reduced. Let me know what you think.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-68119766375908525742010-09-03T13:14:00.008Z2010-09-03T13:40:19.696Z

"Teacher, al-Qaeda didn't attack the World Trade Center.""Well, who do you think attacked the World Trade Center on September 11th, then?""I don't know. But it wasn't al-Qaeda," came the reply from the smartest student in my Advanced 1 class.We had started to discuss the proposed mosque/community center a couple of blocks from Ground Zero and the huge controversy it has generated. Only one

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-72881045443616459712010-09-01T13:40:00.000Z2010-09-03T13:43:59.557Z

In response to Meknes' water problems, hanoots (corner stores) are brimming with bottled water.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-84132381203914316552010-08-30T14:14:00.003Z2010-08-30T14:14:00.153Z

The next day Hafid called to invite me to dinner at a Northern Virginia Arab cafe.We met at a Starbucks near my parents' house, and then he drove us to a local cafe. I attempted to speak in Arabic, but he continuously brought the conversation back to English again and again, which was understandable. He spoke better English than I spoke Arabic.He drove with confidence through the intricate

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-7529488126500806132010-08-28T13:27:00.008Z2010-08-28T14:54:23.179Z

Bending down until level with the counter, I compare the two glasses of water. It is not difficult to determine which contains tap water and which bottled water. A thin layer of brown sediment coats the bottom of one. A hazy mist of other particles, not yet content to join their brethren, continue moving Brownian-style throughout the glass. I am reminded of one of my co-workers: she was treated

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-46787497303587219862010-08-25T12:35:00.000Z2010-08-26T12:42:43.264Z

This cafe usually has two or three rows of tables and chairs the length of its property. During Ramadan no food or drink may be consumed until after sunset.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-43244011237696527152010-08-24T09:35:00.007Z2010-08-24T15:14:34.727Z

One of my readers recently asked me how Moroccans were reacting to the controversy over the proposed mosque/Islamic cultural center near Ground Zero. Honestly, no one has mentioned it since I've been back in Morocco, and I haven't brought the subject up. But I have been following the ruckus online and have been disappointed with the way the debate (shouting match?) has developed.Since my audience

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-42441846124544138442010-08-18T15:31:00.000Z2010-08-18T15:31:00.168Z

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-46014311301744783712010-08-18T00:14:00.004Z2010-08-18T01:47:09.483Z

These past few months, I've posted a great deal on the waves of expulsions of foreign Christians from Morocco. So I thought I had articulated my own view pretty well. But a conversation I had while back in the United States made me realize that perhaps I hadn't.Morocco is it's own country and can make it's own laws. We shouldn't expect them to be a Western country because they're not. And

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-51569748232858251632010-08-16T16:34:00.007Z2010-08-16T16:45:15.401Z

We're living in the dying days of European colonialism.Yes, the mass majority of European colonialism ended in the decades after World War II, and yes most developing countries have been independent for some time now, but those Europeans who were born in their countries' colonies are still around, living in independent countries and now fast approaching death.This NYTimes article on Anglo-Indians

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-80783362773756384782010-08-13T15:33:00.003Z2010-08-13T16:06:24.357Z

When I do a unit on ethnic foods in my classroom, I reel off a list of restaurants that most medium-sized American cities have: Chinese, Thai, Italian, Mexican, Indian, etc. Most students are unfamiliar with them. So I ask: "What are some ethnic foods available here in Meknes?" The students scratch their heads for a while. They're often unsure. Eventually, one of the students ventures an answer,

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-33630950640660597122010-08-13T15:29:00.001Z2010-08-13T15:31:01.374Z

The Hassan II Mosque as seen from a Casablanca balcony.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-45259440798112823052010-08-08T20:12:00.002Z2010-08-08T20:26:05.501Z

The New York Times piece I commented on yesterday provides more fodder for the "other great ways not to understand a culture" file. Jilian York analyzes the journalist's framing of the story:The problem, then, is not Americans, but the Times itself. Its journalists are not the average American; they can afford to, or are sent to, places like Cairo from where they report on stories like this. They

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-3179792530604630872010-08-07T21:58:00.009+01:002010-08-07T22:52:22.788+01:00

The New York Times had an interesting article yesterday on American students doing Arabic programs abroad.Since 9/11 American students have chosen to study Arabic more and more, and so their time abroad is increasingly in Muslim countries. This is an excellent phenomenon, because the Middle East, and the Arab world in general, is profoundly misunderstood in the United States. Getting to know real

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-30175353929309977132010-08-04T12:20:00.000+01:002010-08-04T12:20:00.145+01:00

Tourists visit a shop in Essaouira, Morocco.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-37920907610659694562010-08-03T18:57:00.005+01:002010-08-03T20:39:48.826+01:00

In rather belated coverage of the event, The Economist finally got around to writing an article about the expulsion of evangelicals from Morocco. Nothing new is reported, but because of the far reach of The Economist perhaps now more of the world's citizenry is informed.The Economist opines on the motivation behind the expulsions:But the motivation for the crackdowns is probably political more

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-91959161234474305182010-07-28T11:56:00.000+01:002010-07-28T11:56:01.022+01:00

A group of Moroccan youngsters hawk their goods to beach goers.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-26890764416613698722010-07-25T05:59:00.004+01:002010-07-25T06:19:14.125+01:00

I use the terms "Darija" and "Fusha" regularly on this blog because the linguistic distinction is so important in Morocco today. I have blogged a bit about the difference between Darija, the dialectical form of Arabic Moroccans speak, and Fusha, the standard form of Arabic, but nothing I have written compares with this description by a Dutch anthropologist living in Morocco that I just read.It

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-55122570938008336862010-07-21T12:01:00.003+01:002010-07-21T12:01:00.147+01:00

Just a few months ago, the landscape outside of Meknes was THIS GREEN. My, how things change.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-298735887126350892010-07-17T19:53:00.005+01:002010-07-18T00:16:33.309+01:00

One of the great themes running through the works of the late American author Paul Bowles is that of cultural incommensurability. To put it another way: people from different cultures can never really understand each other. They always just talk past each other and misinterpret each other's actions. It certainly happens that way more often than not, but it needn't always.I have spent the last few

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-13506014619294784242010-07-17T19:29:00.002+01:002010-07-17T19:46:03.284+01:00

It's hard to believe that I arrived in Morocco for the first time over a year ago. My Darija has improved remarkably; something I can't quite say about my Fusha. I have become comfortable with most Moroccan traditions and ways of life. I particularly enjoy the cafe culture and a few excellent dishes, particularly the tajines. The extended greetings can be wearisome at times, but have become

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-17992159656305572022010-07-14T11:46:00.001+01:002010-07-14T11:46:00.681+01:00

Moroccans watch the ocean in Essaouira from the vantage point of the old fortress.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-26867625970266911942010-07-14T04:08:00.004+01:002010-07-14T04:22:42.472+01:00

MoroccoBoard has helpfully translated an article from this week's Tel Quel about the continuing expulsions of Christians from Morocco.Unlike the previous waves of expulsions this year, this one has involved judicial proceedings. As such, Morocco can say that is giving foreign Christians due process."Every three months, since the beginning of the year, the Moroccan authorities are expelling

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-16517874662460023862010-07-11T11:34:00.000+01:002010-07-11T11:34:00.271+01:00

More so than in other Moroccan cities, the moto is one of the most popular forms of transportation. Also in marked contrast to other Moroccan cities, you will also see large numbers of women driving them.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-55002573883753049932010-07-09T02:19:00.002+01:002010-07-09T02:32:51.019+01:00

I am currently in the middle of a ten-day summer intensive session. Rather than sessions once or twice a week for ten weeks, an entire course is crammed into ten straight days. It's a quick turnaround. If the students are bad, I needn't worry. They'll soon be gone. But it's also difficult to stay on top of preparation and keep the students' interest when they're spending so much time with

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-89204141563463073902010-07-07T11:33:00.000+01:002010-07-07T11:33:00.276+01:00

As in many developing countries, McDonald's caters to a middle to upper class clientele in Morocco. The location of the franchises are inevitably found on pricy pieces of real estate near the intersection of the old and new cities.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-91584239357261350122010-07-04T12:35:00.002+01:002010-07-04T12:39:54.710+01:00

Perhaps I was wrong.From MoroccoBoard.com:At the end of last week, at least a dozen American Christian evangelicals who have settled in Morocco and who had received verbal orders of deportation for proselytizing were informed by the Moroccan police or by the U.S. consulate in Casablanca, that these deportation orders had been canceled. The canceled deportation orders were part of an apparent

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-14267630261212423902010-07-04T11:21:00.000+01:002010-07-04T11:21:00.837+01:00

A couple on the beach in Essaouira, Morocco.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-46916380062272961682010-07-02T23:30:00.003+01:002010-07-02T23:35:55.417+01:00

A Brazilian guy and an English/New Zealander gal met in Russia while teaching English. They got married and are spending a year traveling the world as part of their honeymoon, which is documented on this blog. I met them while they were in Meknes.They have now moved on to Egypt, but here is longish quote giving their final reflections on Morocco. I found it particularly insightful in its

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-49376877270523110252010-06-30T11:16:00.003+01:002010-06-30T11:21:23.844+01:00

The Festival of Gnawa and Music of the World in Essaouira, Morocco ended on Sunday.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-77749801364792161582010-06-30T10:22:00.001+01:002010-06-30T11:32:53.265+01:00

On Saturday the U.S. national team lost in the World Cup. It was a good game and Ghana deserves to be proud. They played well.I was in Essaouira, on the Moroccan coast, for a festival of traditional Moroccan music called Gnawa.We found a place in a restaurant overlooking the beach. A group of Americans, who it turned out later were all Fulbright scholars doing research in Morocco, sat in front of

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-68740015223099944322010-06-27T10:03:00.002+01:002010-06-27T10:03:00.360+01:00

Most Moroccans drink their coffee from a glass. However, if you are a foreigner and you do not specify, most Moroccan waiters will serve you coffee in a cup.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-73174425416160850242010-06-24T20:28:00.004+01:002010-06-24T20:53:59.157+01:00

Early in the game, after Algeria's first scoring opportunity, it became clear just how alone our American table was. A low rumble of enthusiasm from the crowd of Moroccan men surrounding us crescendoed into cries of hope, and then died into scattered bursts of vocal disgust. And then emerging from those bursts came the counterpoint of supportive applause from our table. When the U.S. attacked,

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-2499008208162821532010-06-23T13:59:00.003+01:002010-06-23T14:19:16.064+01:00

After days of consistent jibes from Moroccans, after countless discussions about Moroccan support of Algeria, after dozens of requests to watch the game...the moment is here. In a few minutes we will leave to watch the Algeria-US game. If Algeria, a Muslim and Arab nation like Morocco, wins, my life will change here. Walking into all the cafes and restaurants that I frequent will not be the same.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-66844833655581402042010-06-23T10:56:00.002+01:002010-06-23T10:56:00.071+01:00

Two Moroccan students people-watch as they wait for class.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-48591828760657678722010-06-21T00:45:00.003+01:002010-06-21T00:56:31.265+01:00

The second World Cup match every day coincides with Moroccan lunchtime. So the cafes are unusually empty. For the third and last match of the day, the cafes are usually packed.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-61677818469150586052010-06-19T12:05:00.004+01:002010-06-19T13:03:15.960+01:00

Earlier this week, Representative Frank Wolf held hearings about the state of human rights in Morocco.Rep. Wolf opened the discussion, expressing his concern about the “precarious situation” of the Christian minority in Morocco. Chairman Wolf focused primarily on the deportation of over 40 American citizens and other foreign nationals from Morocco in recent months on charges of violating Morocco’

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-52283876839961419442010-06-17T14:44:00.005+01:002010-06-17T23:52:34.436+01:00

Occasional humorous answers are the one consolation to grading final exams.Here is a paragraph from a reading on one exam:"Tom Cruise, like his mother, suffered from dyslexia and he was placed in remedial classes at school. He is right-handed when writing, but does most other things left-handed. As he was not an academic success at school, he focused on athletics and completed in many sports,

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-5667997267084934542010-06-16T12:13:00.004+01:002010-06-16T12:41:16.835+01:00

One of the first things you learn when you come to Morocco is how to haggle. After nine months, I am by no means an expert, but I do have a grasp of bartering basics.So now I'm constantly on the lookout for Moroccans who want to cheat me out of a dirham or two...or five or a hundred. And there are many of those Moroccans. In some restaurants, the prices fluctuate mysteriously depending on the

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-61030013170035054042010-06-16T10:46:00.002+01:002010-06-16T10:50:24.036+01:00

This protest passed by on Sunday. I'm not sure why they had a sign in English as I was the only foreigner nearby.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-14037275583333958942010-06-15T12:46:00.002+01:002010-06-15T13:11:46.761+01:00

It appears as though I've caught the fever. Despite my earlier protestations, I have watched 9 of the first 11 matches of the World Cup. I knew more about soccer than the average American beforehand, but watching so many games all at once has definitely given me an excellent perspective to better understand the game. The best performance so far was clearly Germany's destruction of the Australian

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-13141794936464943632010-06-13T17:44:00.002+01:002010-06-13T17:44:00.209+01:00

Old-school advertising.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-33453912689669142802010-06-11T10:17:00.004+01:002010-06-21T01:14:07.535+01:00

Today begins the month-long march to World Cup glory. Here they refer to the tournament that provides that glory as the "Kas al-3alam" (literally, "Cup of the World") or the "Mondial".Unfortunately, Morocco did not make the tournament, but Moroccans will still be watching a number of games, particularly those of Spain, Portugal, Argentina, and Algeria. Spain because Moroccans' preferred soccer

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-68862880652736645642010-06-10T10:40:00.002+01:002010-06-11T10:42:40.299+01:00

Frank Wolf will be leading U.S. Congressional hearings into the recent deportations from Morocco:The House of representative Tom Lantos Human Rights Commission, which is chaired by James McGovern (D - MA) with ranking republican congressman Frank Wolf (R-VA), will hold a hearing on human rights and religious freedom in Morocco on Thursday June 17th, 2010. The hearing will be open to the press and

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-68633080301610334482010-06-09T21:32:00.000+01:002010-06-09T21:32:01.035+01:00

El Hedim, Meknes' main plaza, is located in the old city across from the gigantic gate Bab Mansour.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-41121665186065974522010-06-06T17:38:00.001+01:002010-06-06T17:38:00.251+01:00

These guys accosted me from a few stories up. They got a real kick out of the fact that I spoke Arabic.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-25121092808261475452010-06-06T03:38:00.005+01:002010-06-06T04:17:50.660+01:00

As in much of the world the intercepted Gaza-bound "Peace Flotilla" has also been in the news in Morocco the past few days.The first time I heard about the event, I didn't really understand what was going on. As I was leaving the cafe in the morning, one of the waiters approached me and started talking to me quickly. All I could understand was the word "Israel". He kept motioning towards the TV,

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-86434570762613510472010-06-04T00:07:00.002+01:002010-06-04T00:15:01.692+01:00

According to Freedom House, Morocco is a "Partly Free" country. It joins a handful of countries such as Lebanon, Kuwait, and Yemen (!?) as the only Arab countries not classified as "Not Free". The report covers a large number of topics. Here is the paragraph on religious liberty:Nearly all Moroccans are Muslims, but the small Jewish community is permitted to practice its faith without government

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-45027072050847905712010-06-02T17:35:00.000+01:002010-06-02T17:35:00.839+01:00

The view of the old medina from our apartment has recently been obscured by a new building.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-23777646225210273032010-06-01T07:33:00.004+01:002010-06-01T07:49:36.562+01:00

In light of recent events, I should rethink my criticism of the Moroccan government. Two months ago, I wrote about the expulsion of Christian orphanage families:It is becoming clearer and clearer that the serious issue in this case is due process of law. The laws were not consistently applied, and excessively severe measures were taken. If there had been consistent standards throughout the

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-2883135137690849632010-05-31T15:54:00.002+01:002010-05-31T16:04:19.085+01:00

"Good morning.""Good morning.""Peace be upon you.""And upon you be peace.""How is it going?""Good, and you?""Very good. Praise be to God."Another man comes around the counter."By the way, do you know Mohammed Didouche?""This one?" He pulls up a photo on the computer and smiles."Yes, that one.""My friend.""I work with him.""Are my photos ready?""Yes." He pulls them out and sets them on the counter

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-64909354089740023172010-05-30T08:43:00.000+01:002010-05-30T08:43:00.349+01:00

A typical sunny day's shadows on a street in Meknes' medina.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-25811791748772637342010-05-29T08:35:00.001+01:002010-06-01T09:21:00.899+01:00

One of the most interesting social phenomena that a world traveler observes is that prostitution is much more prominent in supposedly strict Islamic countries than in the Western world.A recent Guardian article highlights the situation in Dubai:It is impossible to estimate accurately the prostitute population of Dubai. The authorities would never give out such figures, and it would be hard to

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-28126326953928375832010-05-26T21:23:00.000+01:002010-05-26T21:23:00.170+01:00

Moulay Idriss is a small but important village in the center of Morocco. Because the founder of Morocco's first Islamic dynasty was buried here, it has become an important pilgrimage site. The surrounding landscape is green for only a few months every year.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-69624159990810649952010-05-23T08:37:00.000+01:002010-05-23T08:37:00.132+01:00

The cross that was destroyed two months ago was replaced with a new one only a week later. A Moroccan Muslim neighbor built it for the Franciscan Catholics.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-73419721918074787872010-05-22T00:56:00.003+01:002010-05-22T01:37:41.851+01:00

The Morocco Board News Service reports on the newest wave of expulsions, including 23 last week:Morocco has expelled foreign Christians who tried to convert Muslims because, as a moderate Islamic state, it wants to foster "order and calm" and avoid a clash between faiths, its Islamic affairs minister said.The government has expelled around 100 foreign Christians since March, many of them aid

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-25175786487446564592010-05-21T08:47:00.002+01:002010-05-21T09:01:45.128+01:00

The secretary of our language school, who is also one of the many Moroccan teachers at our center, called me in after work."You've been writing a name on the attendance sheets that doesn't exist.""Really? Whose name is it? And in which class?"She shuffled the papers around for a while looking for the sheet in question."Here it is."I looked at it. Along the top, my name, level, class period, and

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-57388495437543786382010-05-19T08:52:00.000+01:002010-05-19T08:52:00.506+01:00

Yassine is searching for an American or European wife. He is funny, passed the bac, and dabbles in a number of languages.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-19910270523168538352010-05-17T15:03:00.003+01:002010-05-17T16:09:38.150+01:00

Perhaps I'm too much of a Western American libertarian for my own good, but I find governments' need to keep track of the humans within its borders a little ridiculous. Of course, when it comes to the state of Arizona, home of Western libertarian and former Presidential candidate Barry Goldwater, other considerations have trumped the privacy that comes with responsible individualism. One wonders

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-79929244712400894162010-05-16T19:56:00.000+01:002010-05-16T19:56:00.475+01:00

After eight months, my room is now completely furnished. The handyman at work, who is also a carpenter, made me a desk for my room.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-48979082395393482342010-05-14T12:44:00.002+01:002010-05-14T12:53:37.552+01:00

It was after 8 PM, and there was a lull as I munched on my chicken. So the 40-year old, in full uniform from the restaurant, sat down with me. After a pause, I gestured at the street and asked, "Why do all the girls have to be home by 6:30?""Because their parents know they might be having sex.""In a cafe?" I humorously questioned, identifying the only real option for youth in Meknes."They start

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-4868480000346824632010-05-13T00:07:00.000+01:002010-05-13T00:31:31.246+01:00

The Moroccan Board News Service posts this testimony of a Mexican working in the north of Morocco for Gateway Medical Alliance. From his article, he had nothing to do with missionary activity. He was charged with being a threat to the national peace of Morocco:The official written accusation for my ejection was that I was “considered a threat to the national peace of Morocco.” After telling me

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-87631548818816302092010-05-12T08:25:00.000+01:002010-05-12T08:25:00.117+01:00

Chicken restaurants are one of the most popular types of restaurants in Morocco. At my favorite chicken restaurant, Brahim cooks the chicken.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-85038479964285218172010-05-10T15:44:00.004+01:002010-05-10T16:09:32.387+01:00

My friend Aziz called me the other night and asked me to come out to a cafe with him and his friends. He added that he had something to tell me.I showed up half an hour later and after the standard greetings and jokes, we chatted a while in Arabic. When the conversation fragmented, Aziz turned to me and, speaking quietly in English (which the others didn't understand), told me he had won the

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-40678233502141833312010-05-09T09:34:00.002+01:002010-05-09T09:34:00.599+01:00

Like many parts of Moroccan society, the area near Bab J'did in Meknes bears marks of both the old and the new.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-15824540442771370392010-05-07T10:43:00.006+01:002010-05-07T11:26:49.722+01:00

In general, Arabs love to talk about the United States and its role in the world. So when we started the unit on "would have", "could have", "should have", I thought it would be a good opportunity to talk about the relationship between the United States and the Arab world. How could the relationship have been better? What should have happened?Surprisingly, most of my younger students couldn't

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-40273272582725655422010-05-06T09:37:00.000+01:002010-05-06T09:37:00.483+01:00

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-37979025294535382082010-05-06T08:46:00.004+01:002010-05-07T11:22:59.546+01:00

The other day, I walked into a cafe that is on the same street where I live but which I visit but rarely. I asked for a couple of my favorite pastries and waited to be served. Instead I received a loud (and yet still friendly) outburst about how well I spoke Arabic. Leaving aside for a moment the fact that it you don't need to know very much Arabic to order pastries, such compliments get a little

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-86418482554493496732010-05-05T12:20:00.004+01:002010-05-05T12:34:01.820+01:00

Last night in class I had a difficult time coaxing a sustained conversation out of my students. This happens from time to time. There are just a few subjects, like Islam, biased media, and parent-children relationships, where they're more than willing to share their thoughts. Oftentimes, there isn't much doing. But this time the subject was movies, and the result surprised me a bit. It wasn't so

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3447783841381929851.post-74254822797322191462010-05-03T21:10:00.000+01:002010-05-03T21:10:00.638+01:00

Volubilis, located half an hour's drive outside of Meknes, was the Roman capital of the Mauretania Tingitana province until the 3rd century A.D. It bears traces of both a Jewish and a Christian presence, predating the long Muslim domination of the area.

ChrisSchaefhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11336685977203023405noreply@blogger.com0