The Miracle Of Mutton

It's amazing what excess mutton will do for relationships.

The past week people have come out of the woodwork to bring me leftover meat from Eid al-Kabir.

First my Arabic tutor brought me a large salad and a huge tajine of mutton kefta (essentially: ground mutton patties). Then, two days later, another friend I hadn't seen in months appeared at my doorstep with a similar meal. Fortunately I didn't have other plans. We sat down together (but not at my table--I've learned that Moroccans feel uncomfortable eating Western-style). Then yesterday right around lunchtime the concierge knocked at my door with a plate of ribs.

Yesterday, I got to see how mutton plays into relationships of authority. I ran into a student who hasn't bothered to come to class all semester (it's the seventh week now). He assured me he has been very busy but he intends to start coming and then catch up on everything he missed. On parting he offered to bring some mutton to class this week (he swears he's coming this week).

I don't mind mutton. And such gifts of food are excellent for my food budget. I really can't complain.

Eid Al-Kabir 2010

Some readers have asked if I will be commenting on the holiday or posting photos. Unfortunately, this year I did not celebrate Eid Al-Kabir other than a post-holiday meal of mutton that my Arabic tutor brought over.

However, feel free to read about my great experience last year watching the sheep slaughter, eating boulfef, and visiting my host's extended family.

Morocco's Development Miracle

Economist Dani Rodrik highlights some findings from the Human Development Report:

Which are the countries that have improved their human development indicators the most since 1970 relative to their peers? You’d be surprised, as I was, to find that the top 10 is dominated not by East Asian superstars, but by Moslem countries: Oman, Indonesia, Saudi Arabia, Tunisia, Morocco, and Algeria. This year’s Human Development Report is full of neat analysis and results, including this one.

Leaving aside the oil exporting countries, the North African cases are particularly interesting. As Francisco Rodriguez and Emma Samman, two of the report’s authors, note, Tunisia, Morocco, and Algeria have experienced remarkable gains in life expectancy and educational attainment, leaving many Asian superstars in the dust. Only Tunisia among the three is a high growth country, underlining one of the report’s main findings that economic growth and human development often diverge significantly, even over as long a time frame as 40 years.

Everyone I've talked to who was cognizant of the 1990's or earlier (i.e., not my students) mentions just how much things have changed.

As I observe my students and think about how they'll parent, I can't help but conclude that these changes will continue for the foreseeable future. It's a fascinating time to be here.

Holiday Fever

When I was younger, the week before Christmas vacation was filled with excited anticipation of presents, freedom, food and family visits. I can't imagine that a classroom of 30 students just like me was very fun to manage back then.

It's strange to be on the other side now. The last week it has been insanely difficult to get my students to focus. The Eid holiday will begin in the middle of this week. Schools take the entire week off. There will be many visits to extended family. And a lot of food will be eaten (mostly mutton).

Before the holiday many schools gave exams. So my students didn't have time to do the homework I assigned them. The relation between this weariness and the general aura of anticipation matched their attitude in my class perfectly as they oscillated between cranky resistance and enthusiastic distraction.

Unlike the other schools, we are still open two more days this week.

I have already given up on trying to teach something. Classes will be smaller; attention spans will be shorter. So I think I will just lead a discussion on their holiday plans.

And I will feel sorry for all the teachers in times past that had to put up with me before a holiday.

Scenes From Morocco: Playing Soccer

A group of Moroccan boys take a break from their soccer game for a group photo. The rock to the right marks one of their goalposts.

Seen Anew

Today after my Arabic lesson, I introduced my Arabic tutor to Craigslist.

He's a quiet guy and so usually doesn't ask too many questions. Actually, I'm the one posing all the questions as we discuss grammar, definitions, slang...

But today the floodgate broke. Very pointed, detailed questions made me realize he's been spending a lot of time thinking through everything. Which is natural; his departure is rapidly approaching. He could go today if he wanted, but he wanted to spend the Eid al-Kabir holidays in Morocco with his family. And then he decided to wait out the Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year's travel season. So sometime in mid-January he'll be headed to Orlando to start a new life.

We started talking about opening a bank account, then moved on to cell phones, and later buying computers. At that point I showed him Craigslist, which led to a discussion about finding apartments, finding jobs, and maybe even finding other Arabic students.

My tutor has a BA in English from the local university, but is currently unemployed (with the notable exception of my Arabic lessons). That education combined with the fact that he listens to BBC radio in English daily. When we discuss politics or culture, I almost never have to provide background explanations or vocabulary. And so I've come to think of him as a fellow partaker in my culture and language.

But he's not. He's never even left Morocco. And now he's headed off into the great unknown in a way that I personally have never had to do. He doesn't know if he will be able to continue his education as he'd like. He doesn't know how many jobs he'll have to work. He doesn't know if he'll even be able to find a job in the current economy. He doesn't know what it will be like adjusting to the new culture. He doesn't know a lot of things.

And with all my knowledge I can only answer so many of his questions. I joked with him, "Sorry I can't help you more. I have more experience looking for jobs in Morocco than in the US."

On the whole I'm optimistic. He's unmarried, speaks fluent English, is hard-working, and as a practicing Muslim doesn't have any vices that will eat up his income. He should do well.

Scenes From Morocco: Dar Oum Sultane

Located on the outskirts of Meknes, Dar Oum Sultane ("The House of the Sultan's Mother") was a vacation home for the royal family a few centuries ago. Since then, it has fallen into disrepair.

Scenes From Morocco: Dusk in Mohammedia

More Expulsions

From MoroccoBoard.com:

According to a news release from International Christian Concern (ICC), on Sept.17, the Moroccan newspaper Al Massae reported that Harder and Sanhi Russell were expelled from the country for “carrying out acts of proselytism” in the city of Kenitra.

ICC reported the article said that Harder, a Canadian citizen, was teaching Arabic at a local school, while Sanhi, of Korean descent, worked with women by teaching “literacy through the teaching of the Bible.” The article reported that the couple was supported by churches in the United States and France.

Some Christians doing humanitarian work were also investigated:

The next day, a Moroccan pastor informed ICC that he had been investigated by the Moroccan secret police for delivering school supplies to the village of Benguerir. The pastor distributed the supplies with the help of 15 foreigners working for a U.S. based organization.

ICC said during the distribution, two members of the secret police arrived to investigate. The pastor and the school director were questioned for more than an hour about the reasons for the Americans’ visit, and the content of the supplies.

The police said the investigation was a precaution to ensure that the group was not proselytizing.

Note From An Anonymous Moroccan Woman

The English center where I teach caters mainly to the upper middle and upper classes in Meknes. To try to balance out my work there, I volunteer at the Franciscan mission in Meknes's old medina, which gives language and computer skills classes. Year long courses there cost 50 Dh (~ $7) as opposed to the ten-week courses at my official job which cost around 1000 Dh (~ $130).

Last week I gave my first writing assignment, and I'm only now getting around to correcting it.

One paragraph in particular stood out. The woman who wrote it is in her late thirties or early forties, making her the oldest in a class of students in their teens and twenties. In class exercises she has spoken about her love for her children and her job cleaning houses. She is one of the most eager to answer questions and try out new grammar and vocabulary. Other than that I know nothing about her.

This is her paragraph verbatim:

A great thing in liFe is to find the kind of occupation that suits us it may even be said that this is on of the chief conditions For keeping perFect heath.
For my the best thing that I have in life is make cheldren and the worst is the Didn't study more in scool or in liFe.
this is the Fist stap let me begin studies.

Scenes From Morocco: Mohammedia Window View

A view of the Atlantic Ocean from a house in Mohammedia.