Friday, January 28, 2011

Full Circle

A few minutes after the sun peaked its head over the horizon this morning, I walked up the steps of Meknes' main train station and shook hands with my fellow teacher Mike.

"I almost thought you had forgotten the money." He handed me 250 Dirhams, our agreed upon price for the Arabic textbook Al-kitab 3. The two of us walked inside and approached my former roommate Daniel.

"We come full circle." He smiled as we shook hands.

I had forgotten that day in the summer of 2009 when I met him for the first time. He had walked up those same steps, greeted me, and then we walked down Avenue des FAR to our totally unfurnished shared apartment. Flashes of memories shot through my brain as I turned to greet the other English teachers preparing to leave for the nationwide conference.

Hassan Hassani inquired, "Are you going to Agadir, Chris?"

"No. I just came to say 'goodbye'," I replied.

"Who's going to gamble, win, and buy me beers this year then?"

I turned to Mike, "Maybe this guy will....how much did I win again?"

Without batting an eyelash Hassani responded, "700 Dirhams." Mike nodded, impressed.

Chelsea, the last remaining American teacher, arrived porting a winter cap, scarf and large coat. "It's like the Arctic out there."

I smiled, looking outside at the 50 F weather and thinking of all the Facebook blizzard status updates from my Philadelphia friends this week.

I gave each of them a hug and shared the usual parting banalities, with more or less seriousness.

My almost two years in Meknes are drawing to a close. On Sunday I will take the same train west, and on Tuesday I will leave Morocco. It has become almost a biannual tradition for me to leave a place, its people, its institutions, and its customs. It's always bitter-sweet. To abandon what you know is to prune yourself of some of your best foliage, but it's also an opportunity for relationships, knowledge, and activities to grow back stronger and fuller.

The Moroccan teachers had filtered through the line and out to the tracks, leaving the three Americans behind. I said one final goodbye, turned, and walked down the steps of the Meknes train station, along the park, and onto Avenue des FAR towards home, this time alone.

Thursday, January 6, 2011

A Small Favor

In my favorite cafe, there are only two positions women are eligible for: cleaning and manning (womanning?) the cash register. This is par for the course--men make the coffee and serve it; women keep track of the money to pay for the coffee and tidy up the mess coffee-drinkers make. In both cases, the women work either the morning shift (till 2:30 PM or so) or the afternoon/evening shift (till closing).

Today Safae was working the morning shift. A pale, petite Moroccan, she wears the headscarf when it's cold, studies English at Moulay Ismail University, and rolls her eyes at the men's incessant joking. Occasionally, she even participates. Mostly though, she just observes, always ready to adjudicate a waiter's sanity for me. When things get out of hand, she lifts her right hand to her head and rolls her wrist, mouthing the word "7ma9" ("crazy") to me, as she glances askance at the guilty waiter.

Today, during a lull in the playfulness, Safae approached my table and, speaking in English, asked me a favor.

"For my class at the university I have to write a paper about Hamlet. Have you read it?"

"Yes," I replied cautiously.

"I haven't. Could you write me a summary of the plot?"

I flashed back to my high school days. The majority of my class didn't read Hamlet either; they read the Sparknotes. "You know there are good summaries online," I replied.

"Yes, I know. But every time I copy something from the internet the professor knows and gives me a zero."

At that point, I switched to Darija, "I can help you with something you don't understand. I'd even be happy to revise something you write. But I'm not going to do your homework for you."

She looked around and then responded in English, restating her favor. I responded in Darija again. What followed was, if my memory serves me right, my first public argument in Darija.

If her embarrassed retreat to the cash register serves as any indication, I do believe I won.