Saturday, June 19, 2010

US Congressmen Criticize Morocco, US Ambassador

Earlier this week, Representative Frank Wolf held hearings about the state of human rights in Morocco.
Rep. Wolf opened the discussion, expressing his concern about the “precarious situation” of the Christian minority in Morocco. Chairman Wolf focused primarily on the deportation of over 40 American citizens and other foreign nationals from Morocco in recent months on charges of violating Morocco’s law against proselytizing. Observing that the Moroccan government did not provide documented evidence for the charges or submit to due process of law, Rep. Wolf stated that the action “calls into question” the longstanding friendship between Morocco and the United States.

The hearings seemed pretty one-sided. One witness mentioned positive aspects about the legal status of women, but no one from the Moroccan government (or supporting the Moroccan government) testified to defend their actions. Of course, it's quite understandable. When you expel dozens of people from your country without presenting evidence and giving them scant time to pack their bags, you are going to have a lot of witnesses willing to testify against you.

I'm not defending the Moroccan government here, but I think that their clear explanation of the events would be beneficial to all involved. So far, the only statements they have released can be disproved by spending a few hours with Moroccans, are patently ridiculous, or are couched in silly meaningless language. (What does it really mean to "shake someone's faith"?) With the exception of Tel Quel, Moroccan media has done little to question the official narrative. Instead it has actively promoted the government's line, and in some cases has printed incendiary rhetoric against foreign residents. Since the press had dropped the ball, probing questions about the events would be welcomed from anyone.

But I also think the government's answers to such questions would have helped guide the discussion away from the direction it took during Representative Wolf's hearings.

On the one hand, the Moroccan government actions are pretty reprehensible according to any conception of the rule of law, empathy, or liberal democracy. And these hearings seemed to cover those flagrant violations pretty well.

But on the other hand, there seemed to be a remarkable lack of historical and regional context, based on the summary I read of the hearings. Morocco did not develop like European countries or like the United States. It consisted of a bunch of unruly tribal areas until very recently. It was colonized. It is a Muslim country, not a secular country based on Christian principles and culture. These are all important differences.

Morocco has attracted so many missionaries mainly because it is so open. College students can come on vacation; they're not that different from other tourists. Many people speak English, and since Americans by and large don't speak Arabic, that enables conversation about religion. Despite recent crackdowns on political dissidents, the press and on non-Sunni Muslims, Morocco is still a better country to be a Westerner or a Christian than almost any other Arab country.

It seems to me we need to stop pretending that all countries come from the same Western mold (liberal democracies based on rule of law and certain fundamental rights). Sure, that would be nice if all countries were. But they're not. And these congressional hearings start from the premise that all countries should be, and when they don't meet the standard, something is terribly wrong.

On another note, it's interesting that all the members of Congress quoted in the coverage of the hearing are Republicans. Their criticism of Obama and his foreign policy cannot be separated from their desire to score some political points, even at the expense of the American ambassador.
Rep. Smith joined in, commenting that the U.S. embassy in Morocco has been “AWOL” regarding its response to the issue, and tied the problem in Morocco to what he called the “feckless” and “ineffective” human rights policy of the Obama administration. Smith said that the fact that the administration has only recently appointed an Ambassador-at-Large for International Religious Freedom indicates President Obama’s “lack of prioritization” regarding these issues.

Regarding what kind of assistance the deported Americans had received from the U.S. State Department, Cloud indicated that he had not been contacted by U.S. Ambassador to Morocco Samuel L. Kaplan, whereas Boonstra stated that Ambassador Kaplan’s Dutch counterpart had called him personally on the phone to discuss the deportation.

As I recall, Kaplan pretty roundly denounced the way in which the deportations were carried out while trying to respect Moroccan law as it stands. Not telephoning all the deported Americans strikes me as poor criteria for being "AWOL".

In the end, there are many more important issues in U.S.-Moroccan relations than due process for expelled American missionaries: the Western Sahara question, Islamic terrorists in the Sahara, business and economic links, etc. So it's hard to see the Obama administration taking a firm stand on this small issue at the expense of those others.

Thus, even if the Republicans are correct in pointing out a sad situation, the lack of contextualization, the absence of a Moroccan voice, American political partisanship, and more pressing foreign policy matters all substantially reduce these hearings' significance.

Thursday, June 17, 2010

Exam Answers: Tom Cruise Edition

Occasional humorous answers are the one consolation to grading final exams.

Here is a paragraph from a reading on one exam:
"Tom Cruise, like his mother, suffered from dyslexia and he was placed in remedial classes at school. He is right-handed when writing, but does most other things left-handed. As he was not an academic success at school, he focused on athletics and completed in many sports, including wrestling. A knee injury derailed his hopes of a promising athletic career."

The question about this paragraph read:
Why was Tom Cruise placed in remedial classes at school?


One student was a sentence off:
Because he is right-handed when writing and does most other things left-handed.

And another misinterpreted the phrase "like his mother":
Tom Cruise was placed in remedial classes at school because he likes his mother.

Wednesday, June 16, 2010

Exceptions To The Rule

One of the first things you learn when you come to Morocco is how to haggle. After nine months, I am by no means an expert, but I do have a grasp of bartering basics.

So now I'm constantly on the lookout for Moroccans who want to cheat me out of a dirham or two...or five or a hundred. And there are many of those Moroccans. In some restaurants, the prices fluctuate mysteriously depending on the customer or the waiter. In other situations, a quoted price often isn't the paid price unless you remember it and hold the Moroccan to it.

It's tempting to say that as a rule Moroccans are always looking to make a buck off of you.

However, this isn't always the case, as two recent events have revealed.

Item number one
A month or so ago, I started standard Arabic (Fusha) lessons with a new tutor. Although he has no experience teaching or tutoring, he was highly recommended by a Moroccan friend who studied English with him in college.

"One time when we got our papers back in class, I read his, and it was just like a newspaper editorial. The style was amazing."

On top of this, he does something few Moroccans do: "He has even read novels in Arabic."

So now I have a Moroccan tutor who speaks fluent English, writes eloquent Arabic prose, and has even read novels in Arabic. But since he has no experience tutoring, he was hesitant to set a price for our sessions. He said he was happy just to help me. I pressed four, five, six times. He wouldn't even give me a range of prices.

Finally I just set a range of prices. He picked a number towards the upper end, but not the maximum amount I said I would pay him.

I think it's a good deal, but I don't really know. I've never done bartering that way before.

Item number two
In another case of Arabic lessons, a French woman I know is also looking for an Arabic tutor, but for a Darija (dialect) tutor. She is working with the regional administration as part of an exchange between Meknes-Tafilat and the Centre region in France, but hasn't found anyone willing to tutor her for a reasonable price with regular meetings.

So I asked one of the brightest students in my classes if she wanted to tutor this French woman. I explained the situation, and I asked how her French was. She hesitated at first, but finally she told me that she always had the highest grades in her Arabic-French translation class. But then she laughed, in a strange gesture that was meant to deflate any hint of pride that might have come across in the sharing of such information.

The big concern for the French woman was money. So I asked my student how much she would charge.

She replied, "Oh, I don't need the money. I'll just do it for free."

"But couldn't you use a little extra money on the side? What if you want to buy something special? A computer or something?"

"I already have a computer."

"But for anything else?"

"My parents give me enough money for what I need."

My student is so isolated from the rest of Moroccan society that she can give away a valuable service, something that many people would pay a great deal of money for. She just wanted to meet first to make sure she was good enough. Such a humble, financially-disinterested mindset blew me mind.

This isn't just about money, though. In the first case, my tutor is a college graduate who is currently unemployed. He does not have a great deal of money. But my student comes from a wealthy and influential family in Meknes.

Both show a disregard for financial gain that is, at once, typically Moroccan in its hospitality and unusually oblivious to the time-honored Moroccan custom of bartering for monetary gain.

Scenes From Morocco: Education Protest
















This protest passed by on Sunday. I'm not sure why they had a sign in English as I was the only foreigner nearby.

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

World Cup: First American Game

It appears as though I've caught the fever.

Despite my earlier protestations, I have watched 9 of the first 11 matches of the World Cup.

I knew more about soccer than the average American beforehand, but watching so many games all at once has definitely given me an excellent perspective to better understand the game. The best performance so far was clearly Germany's destruction of the Australian side on Sunday night. German efficiency in soccer, paralleling their efficiency in industry, is often described with the word "machine" in conversations here. Their passing and control were phenomenal. Right now, the consensus seems to be they are the team to beat.

The worst matches so far were likely the scoreless Uruguay-France matchup or the sloppy Algeria-Slovenia one.

Though, my favorite match by far was the American draw against an excellent England squad. Daniel, Chelsea and I headed to a local bar to watch it. The bar was mostly empty as Moroccans generally use cafes to watch sports games and bars to find prostitutes. A couple from Reno, Nevada on their honeymoon trip through Morocco sat behind us, but otherwise there was only a smattering of Moroccan men in suits only mildly interested in the game.

I walked in three minutes late coming from church. One minute later, Gerrard scored England's only goal, and Daniel told me to leave the bar. Fortunately, we discovered over the course of the match that my arrival had no causative effect on England's goal. I watched the rest of the game and England didn't score again.

When Clint Dempsey scored his goal, Daniel started jumping around and screaming his excitement. The couple from Nevada just laughed, but the prostitute sitting near him got so scared she almost left her seat. All in all, it was a great game. Both sides played well and mounted good attacks. Both goalkeepers had excellent saves. There were no stupid mistakes that plagued Algeria's side.

This is only the fifth day. We're only 12 matches in. It's going to be an exciting month!

Friday, June 11, 2010

Kas al-3alam

Today begins the month-long march to World Cup glory. Here they refer to the tournament that provides that glory as the "Kas al-3alam" (literally, "Cup of the World") or the "Mondial".

Unfortunately, Morocco did not make the tournament, but Moroccans will still be watching a number of games, particularly those of Spain, Portugal, Argentina, and Algeria. Spain because Moroccans' preferred soccer league is the Spanish one. Portugal because Real Madrid star Ronaldo is Portuguese. Argentina because Barcelona star Lionel Messi is Argentine. And Algeria because it's a neighbor and the only Arab team in the tournament. (Moroccans assure me the two nations really have a lot in common even if they have a closed border and have been in conflict for decades because of the Western Sahara question.)

Currently we have two couchsurfers here, one of whom is from Brazil. Like my roommate Daniel, he wants to watch all 64 games of the World Cup. When this came up in conversation, I told them that I would like to conduct my life in peace for the next month and not have it held hostage by a soccer schedule.

Daniel responded, "But you might miss THE GOAL of the tournament. And then how would you feel?"

I didn't respond. Honestly, I'm not sure that I would be that torn up about it.


The first match starts at 3 PM Moroccan time. If nothing else, I will be in a cafe watching South Africa and Mexico go at it. And then tomorrow night, I will resume my seat to watch the epic struggle between England and the United States. After that, I'm not making any promises.