Monday, May 31, 2010

Picking Up Photos

"Good morning."
"Good morning."
"Peace be upon you."
"And upon you be peace."
"How is it going?"
"Good, and you?"
"Very good. Praise be to God."

Another man comes around the counter.
"By the way, do you know Mohammed Didouche?"
"This one?" He pulls up a photo on the computer and smiles.
"Yes, that one."
"My friend."
"I work with him."

"Are my photos ready?"
"Yes." He pulls them out and sets them on the counter.
"Seven of the small ones, and twelve of the medium ones."
"They look good."
"It's one and a half dirhams for the small ones."
"Ok, very good."
"And how much are the medium-sized ones?" He looks at his co-worker. Shakes of the head. He looks at me. "How much are these?"
"I don't know." He worked there; I didn't.
"What did you pay last time? Was it 6? 7? 8?"
"I don't remember."
"10? 6?"
"I don't know." I shrugged my shoulders.
He looked at his co-worker again. More blank stares in the confused struggle to set a price for their most basic service.

"Well, you're friends with Didouche. We'll make it 6."
"Very good." I was happy with the outcome.
I paid and he returned my change.

"God help you."
"Take care of yourself."
"Take care of yourself."
"Go with peace."
"Go with peace."

Sunday, May 30, 2010

Saturday, May 29, 2010

Islam and Prostitution

One of the most interesting social phenomena that a world traveler observes is that prostitution is much more prominent in supposedly strict Islamic countries than in the Western world.

A recent Guardian article highlights the situation in Dubai:
It is impossible to estimate accurately the prostitute population of Dubai. The authorities would never give out such figures, and it would be hard to take into account the "casual" or "part-time" sex trade. One recent estimate put the figure at about 30,000 out of a population of about 1.5 million. A similar ratio in Britain would mean a city the size of Glasgow and Leeds combined entirely populated by prostitutes.

This is a blog about Morocco, not Dubai, but the situation is really not that different, particularly in the disjuncture between official religious and legal policy and actual enforcement.
Even though selling sex is haram (forbidden) under Islamic law, the authorities rarely do anything about it. Occasionally, an establishment will break some unwritten rule. Cyclone, a notorious whorehouse near the airport, was closed down a few years back, but then it really did go too far – a special area of the vast sex supermarket was dedicated to in-house oral sex. When the authorities ordered it to be closed, the girls simply moved elsewhere.

One difference is that Dubai has a large highly educated ex-pat population. Despite their usual hang-ups, they often conform to local mores.
The other big category of punters is Europeans and Americans, and it is remarkable how quickly it all seems normal. A few drinks with the lads on a Thursday night, maybe a curry, some semi-intoxicated ribaldry, and then off to a bar where you know "that" kind of girl will be waiting. In the west, peer group morality might frown on such leisure activities, but in Dubai it's as normal as watching the late-night movie.
[...]
Wives and families escape the heat by going to Europe or the US, and the change that comes over the male expat population is astounding. Middle-aged men in responsible jobs – accountants, marketeers, bankers – who for 10 months of the year are devoted husbands, transform in July and August into priapic stallions roaming the bars of Sheikh Zayed Road.

So the big question is: why is prostitution so prevalent in the Islamic world, where it is technically haram (forbidden)?

Some of the Moroccans I know blame it entirely on Western influence. They point out that most bars, which are synonymous with prostitution here, exist in the newer parts of cities built during colonialization. The fact that Dubai, with its modernization and Westernization, seems to be the center of prostitution in the Arab world would only seem to establish that fact.

But it certainly can't be strictly Western influence, or else prostitution would be just as prevalent in Western cities. And it obviously is not.

Perhaps a better explanation is the money. Dubai has lots of it, and as the article explains, many foreign women can avoid lifelong destitution with a few years work as a lady of the night.
Thousands of women buy entitlement to full-time residence, and lucrative employment, in this way. Three years in Dubai – the normal duration of a residence visa – can be the difference between lifelong destitution and survival in Yerevan, Omsk or Bishkek.

Others might seek the reason in the societal-shaping religious beliefs of the different cultures. An Egyptian Copt I know says that one of the fundamental societal differences between Islamic and Christian societies is that of monogamy and polygamy. In Islam a man is allowed up to four wives if he can afford them (and, at least in Morocco, if the first wife approves). In Christian Scriptures, in contrast, the relationship between the church and God is represented as a monogamous, mutually faithful relationship, a model for human marriages. Jesus furthermore said that anyone who looks on a woman with lust in his heart has already committed the sin of adultery. Western society certainly doesn't follow these dictates perfectly (France comes to mind...), but the ideals have certainly shaped society.

My Copt friend believes that Muslim men cannot help but be on the look-out for the next wife...or just any woman, because the step between the next wife and the substitution of a prostitute is not that big of one.

Also, we might note that both religions have traditionally placed a high value on virginity before marriage, although contemporary Islamic culture places a much greater emphasis on female virginity than male virginity. And what do you get when have a large population of horny young bucks free to do as they please knowing they must wait until marriage for sex with a good girl? They're certainly not going to sleep with the virgin type of woman they're going to marry (although many do and then the vagina is sewed close before the wedding day)...they're going to slake their lust with a different type of woman.

On a final note, we might look at the location of prostitution, one of the other big differences between prostitution in the Western world and in the Islamic world. As the Guardian article points out, outside solicitation is rare in Dubai . It is rare in Morocco too. It is not rare in Europe or America though, where girls "work the streets". In some cases, the social atmosphere of a bar can protect prostitutes from the abuse and violence they face working alone.

Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Scenes From Morocco: Moulay Idriss
















Moulay Idriss is a small but important village in the center of Morocco. Because the founder of Morocco's first Islamic dynasty was buried here, it has become an important pilgrimage site. The surrounding landscape is green for only a few months every year.

Sunday, May 23, 2010

Scenes From Morocco: Restored Cross
















The cross that was destroyed two months ago was replaced with a new one only a week later. A Moroccan Muslim neighbor built it for the Franciscan Catholics.

Saturday, May 22, 2010

23 Foreigners Expelled Last Week

The Morocco Board News Service reports on the newest wave of expulsions, including 23 last week:
Morocco has expelled foreign Christians who tried to convert Muslims because, as a moderate Islamic state, it wants to foster "order and calm" and avoid a clash between faiths, its Islamic affairs minister said.

The government has expelled around 100 foreign Christians since March, many of them aid workers, in what Western diplomats have called an unprecedented crackdown on undercover preaching.

"These incidents (expulsions) were prompted by the activism of some foreigners who undermined public order," Religious Endowments and Islamic Affairs Minister Ahmed Toufiq told Reuters in an interview late on Thursday.

"There are some who hide their proselytism and religious activism under the guise of other activities," he said.

I found this line of reasoning interesting. Factually, it is certainly correct. And in Morocco historically concerns over "order and calm" have regularly trumped individuals' freedom of conscience or religion, even if the discussion is limited merely to Muslims. Many Moroccans point to Algeria and its civil war as an example of what happens when you don't use government force to limit religious disagreements.

Thankfully, there hasn't been a civil war in Morocco nor has there been any sort of the extreme bloodletting along religious lines that we have seen in other parts of the Middle East. That is certainly due in large part to the strong arm of the state when it comes to these issues.

That being said, other comments from Minister Toufiq strike me as disingenuous if not blatantly false.
Converting Muslims is a crime in Morocco, punishable by up to six months in jail, but the authorities generally expel foreigners accused of proselytising rather than take them to court to avoid publicity and criticism from abroad.

Muslims make up 99 percent of Morocco's population and the north African country allows freedom of worship to mostly foreign Christians and a few thousand indigenous Jews.

Toufiq said Morocco was eager to foster respect and coexistence between its different faiths, but was also "protecting its religious community".

"Morocco wants to prevent a clash or conflict between religions. It is not necessary that one religion converts believers of another religion," he said, adding that he had explained this position to representatives of other faiths.

If it is not necessary that one religion convert believers of another religion, then why do so many Moroccan Muslims try to convert me to Islam?

Upon meeting a Moroccan, the second or third question is inevitably, "Are you Muslim?" often followed by others like "Do you pray?" or "What do you think of Mohammed?" or "What do you think of the Koran?" I can't count the number of Muslims who have tried to get me to repeat the Shahada (the statement of belief in one God and Mohammed's status as prophet, which when said, makes you a Muslim).

Perhaps it's not clear to Toufiq that Muslims also try to convert others, but from my vantage point it's as clear as day.

I usually shrug these events off with a joke. Or I quote an aya from the Koran to let my new Muslim friends know that I do respect them and I want to coexist with them.

But let's be real about this: most of them want me to be a Muslim. And I wish that they had a real knowledge of the Christian gospel and not the false representation they are all taught. And any sort of honest dialogue in respect has to start from those facts.

In a state where true religious liberty existed, where freedom of conscience was actually valued, we would be able to have discussions about these subjects in mutual respect and tolerance. We would be able to speak openly and the force of the state would not interfere in those discussions nor in the decisions that resulted.

Morocco is not that kind of state.

Friday, May 21, 2010

Taking Attendance

The secretary of our language school, who is also one of the many Moroccan teachers at our center, called me in after work.

"You've been writing a name on the attendance sheets that doesn't exist."

"Really? Whose name is it? And in which class?"

She shuffled the papers around for a while looking for the sheet in question.

"Here it is."

I looked at it. Along the top, my name, level, class period, and date were all correct. Sometimes I use the American [month/day/year] instead of the international [day/month/year] for the date. In this case, though, I had got it right.

My eyes scanned lowered. On the left side, I had written three students' names. They were all in the class, and they had all been gone that day.

I looked over at the right side. There I had written: "TARDY:" followed by another student's name. We weren't required to note the tardies, but I knew that sometimes they called the parents if students regularly waltzed in late, especially the young girls. She was definitely in the class and she had come 15 minutes late, I remembered.

The secretary pointed to the right side. "Tardy. Who is that?"

I read off the student's name. "Yes, she's definitely in the class. She is on the list."

"No, no. The name above it: Tardy. Who is that?"

I looked at her with a blank stare.

Suddenly it dawned on me. I explained to her, "'Tardy' means 'late'. I was writing down the names of the students who came late in case you want to call their parents."

"Oh...no. If you have a problem with late students just come and tell me directly."